Tips for making your home less drafty
Use gaskets to seal electrical outlets and switches. The savings are small, but it will make rooms feel less drafty, allowing you to lower your thermostat more comfortably. As with any work around electricity, turn off your circuit breakers or remove fuses first.
Close drapes at night. For the really dedicated, window quilts are available at window decor shops, or cut styrofoam panels to friction fit the opening for real savings.
Move easy chairs away from windows. Room air is cooled by the glass and "falls" to the floor, creating drafts near the windows even if the windows are airtight.
Buy an inexpensive relative humidity meter. In winter, indoor relative humidity should be between 20 & 40%. Lower relative humidity levels indicate an overly leaky house in need of caulking & weatherstripping. Humidifiers, except in cases of medical necessity, should not be used as they treat the symptom rather than the problem. Also, the resultant humidity gets into your walls and ceiling cavities and may damage your home.
Caulk around windows and doors, and weather-strip doors. Remember to weather-strip doors leading to unheated areas – porches, attached garages, attics, basements, and so on. Door thresholds (where the door bottom meets the sill) need a tight seal.
Energy Savings Map 
If you are replacing doors or windows, make sure the new unit is energy efficient and has the recommended "R" rating ("R" refers to resistance to winter heat loss or summer heat gain). The higher the "R" rating, the better it insulates. A single-glazed window has a rating of 1; double glazed windows are rated 2; a 6-inch thick piece of insulation is 19.
Do not walk on or stack things on attic insulation. Do not block attic vents.
Make sure the fireplace damper is closed when the fireplace is not in use. If your fireplace has no damper (many don’t) or the damper is leaky (most are) stuff a plastic trash bag with fiberglass insulation and wedge the filled bag in the flue. It makes a cheap, airtight seal that is easy to remove and reuse when you use the fireplace.
Don’t rely on your fireplace for heat. Because a fireplace or Franklin type stove exhausts a large volume of heated interior air up the chimney while operating, your home actually experiences a net loss of heat. To illustrate, the part of you facing the fire feels warm because of the radiant heat generated by the fire. The other side feels cold because of the draft created by the room air rushing to support the flame and then going up the chimney. All the heated air going up the chimney is replaced by exterior air leaking in, which must then be heated to room temperature.
Fireplace inserts, on the other hand, convert your fireplace to a woodstove. When properly installed they are about as efficient as a free standing woodstove.
Inspect your attic. You should have at least one foot of some type of insulation in the attic floor. If you have less, and there is room, consider adding insulation.
Energy Conservation Insulation Facts
Airseal around the chimney where the chimney goes from unheated to heated areas, and around wires and vent pipes. Use metal and high temperature caulk– available at any auto supply store – to air-seal around chimneys to reduce fire danger. Any solid material such as cardboard or plywood cut to fit, and "foam in a can" or regular caulk will work well for other openings.
Energy Savings Map
If you have fiberglass insulation (pink or yellow blanket "stuff" that looks like cotton candy) check it for discolored areas. Black staining in the fibers indicates a significant air leak from your home to the attic. Fold back the insulation and seal any openings you find below it.
Energy Savings Map
Seal around pipes that enter the home (electrical, water, telephone) with caulking or foam in a can.
Caulk where the sill and foundation meet. In the basement, fill the spaces between the floor joists with 6" fiberglass along the exterior walls .
Remove window air conditioners in the winter, if possible. If not possible, use an insulated cover.
Caulk around the dryer vent.
Seal cracks in foundation.
Insulate and air-seal the attic entry if attic is unheated.
